Sometimes I doubt, seeing the haute couture for clothing or shoes. Haute couture is also in Architecture, and my opinion, except for notable exceptions, is generally negative. However, I think we should show this kind of proposal, halfway between research and eccentricity. Mies van der Rohe probably would say it is not necessary to invent a shoe every morning. Especially when many do not even have a pair for walking. Now that the holidays come, give an opportunity to these designs. Here we bring the latest design by Rem D Koolhaas firm (not to be confused with the architect, though they are family) in collaboration with the young designer Iris van Herpen.

Dutch fashion designer Iris van Herpen was the talk of the town during the Paris fashion week this summer. She conceptually pushed the envelope furthest with her ‘Capriole’ collection, while sticking to an unsurpassed level of craftsmanship. She also became an official guest member to the ‘Cham- bre Syndicale de la Haute Couture’, one of the greatest honors any fashion designer can possibly aspire to, certainly at age 27. Among its official members are Chanel, Dior, Givenchy and Gaultier.

All new footwear for Iris van Herpen’s show was again created in collaboration with United Nude. The designs were so intensely conceptual, that production was limited to the four catwalk pairs only. The curved heels took shape with computer aided design and were then by way of rapid prototyping printed in 3D and laminated with carbon fiber for strength. The upper material for the shoes, also used in some of Van Herpen’s dresses, was exclusively developed by Bart Hess.

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Rem D. Koolhaas is a Dutch architect trained at the Technical University of Delft in Holland.Nephew of architecture mastermind Rem Koolhaas. In 2000 he produced and edited a documentary film entitled "Moving Manhattan" with an accompanying book entitled "Shadow Book" with Neville Mars. In 2003 he was nominated with his Möbius shoe for the Rotterdam Design Award.

Besides architect, this Dutch designer launched "United Nude" in 2003 with Galahad JD Clark. Nude is a branding and design company that serves as a creative force and hub for interaction between architects, fashion designers, magazine editors and photographers. The products are about clear concept, elegance and new ideas where they often collaborate with other brands such as K-Swiss to create the first dual-branded United Nude+K-Swiss shoe.

www.unitednude.com

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Iris van Herpen (born 5 June 1984, Wamel, The Netherlands) is a Dutch fashion designer who is widely recognized as one of fashion’s most talented and forward-thinking creators who continuously pushes the boundaries of fashion design. She studied Fashion Design at Artez Institute of the Arts Arnhem and interned at Alexander McQueen in London, and Claudy Jongstra in Amsterdam. Since her first show in 2007 van Herpen has been preoccupied with inventing new forms and methods of sartorial expression by combining the most traditional and the most radical materials and garment construction methods into her unique aesthetic vision. 

Van Herpen is often hailed as a pioneer in utilizing 3D printing as a garment construction technique, and as an innovator who is comfortable with using technology as one of the guiding principles in her work because of its sculptural nature and unfamiliar form. The designer’s intent is to blend the past and the future into a distinct version of the present by fusing technology and traditional Couture craftsmanship.

Her singular vision combined with the complexity of her creations has made van Herpen a fixture on the Paris Haute Couture calendar, where she has shown since January 2011.

Van Herpen’s work has been featured in various museum exhibitions, including a major retrospective that is touring the United States since 2015, beginning with a six-month long run at the High Museum of Art in Atlanta. Six of her dresses were acquired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and seven of her works were exhibited in its highly successful 2016 “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology” show. In addition to the above, van Herpen’s creations have been exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and the Cooper Hewitt museum in New York, and the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, among others.

Three solo books have been published on the designer’s work. “Iris van Herpen” by the Groninger Museum to accompany her first solo exhibit, “Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion” by the High Museum of Art to accompany the United States museum tour, and most recently “Iris van Herpen Backstage”. Van Herpen has received numerous awards since 2009. These include the Johannes Vermeer Award, state prize for the arts (2017), the ANDAM Grand Prix Award (2014) and the Grand Prize of the European commission – STARTS (2016).

Van Herpen’s distinct aesthetic viewpoint made her dress many progressive musicians and actresses such as Björk, for whose video's and tours van Herpen has created several dresses, Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton, Cara Delvingne, Daphne Guinness, Miley Cyrus, Gwendoline Christie, Fan Bing Bing, Lady Gaga, Naomi Campbell, Solange Knowles, Natalia Vodianova and Grimes. Her special projects included dressing the actress Scarlett Johannson in the film “Lucy” and dressing Beyoncé for her “Mine” video. As a former ballet practicer herself, van Herpen also created costumes for the Paris Opera and the New York City Ballet, collaborating with the choreographer Benjamin Millepied and the Sasha Waltz dance company in Berlin.

Because of van Herpen’s interest in multidisciplinary approach to creation that goes beyond fashion, she has often collaborated with various artists such as Jolan van der Wiel and Neri Oxman and architects such as Philip Beesley and Benthem and Crouwel Architects. The designer’s interest in science and technology has led to ongoing conversations with CERN (The European Organization for Nuclear Research) and MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology).

Today, van Herpen continues to work within her Amsterdam studio, where new ideas are born, and where Haute Couture orders are meticulously crafted for her global clientele, each creation passing through the designer’s own hands.
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Published on: December 16, 2011
Cite: "Iris van Herpen x United Nude. Haute Couture Footwear" METALOCUS. Accessed
<http://www.metalocus.es/en/news/iris-van-herpen-x-united-nude-haute-couture-footwear> ISSN 1139-6415
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